Modelling the AMS60

— IN PROGRESS —

This article gives an overview how to build a model of an AMS60 minesweeper as used by the Dutch Navy, the model has been created on the request of the team supporting and maintaining the AMS ms Bernisse. It has been designed as a 1/100 scale model (44 cm long model) and the 3D-design work is based on the original drawings.

The 3D-model design is done in Blender and the model can be 3D-printed on a FDM printer and a Resin printer. The model as used shown has been printed using a Creality Ender 5 (with some upgrades) and an Anycubic Mono SE.

Building a 3d-printed model does require a bit more work compared to a scale model you can buy. More specific the FDM printed parts will show print-layers and (small) imperfections. Sanding and using putty is required, but you no not need to go overboard with this, as a paint basecoat will fix a lot of the smaller imperfections. During the build process you will be working rather close to the model, but when you model is ready usually you will not get that close anymore to the model.

The hull will be printed in 4 parts, this is done to make sure the parts are printed in the best possible orientation too prevent artifacts and imperfections.

Also remember that your model has a 1.2mm wall thickness. Never sand too long as you might sand through the wall.

I use Alabastine auto-plamuur, but any modelling putty will work fin, as long it can be sanded easy and painted.

The hull

The hull has been cut in 4 parts, from left to right, starting from the bow. A 3D-printed display stand will be included.

Part 1 – The bow

The first part of the hull takes about 5 hours to print (0,20 mm print-layer), you will need to do some sanding and a bit of putty work. As you can see I have some layer-lines visible, my printer might be getting a bit old, but this is easy corrected.

The front part of the deck, again imperfections.

Sanding the hull, make sure the only sand the imperfections, do not sand the hull details. You can also use a small hobby knife to cut or scrape the imperfections. In the second picture you can clearly see the print-layer in keel beam. That we will correct.

And adding some putty on the anchor-beds and the keel-beam. When the putty is dry, sand it with fine sanding-paper. That’s it, the Bow-part ready.

Part 2 – Steering-house part

The second part takes about 6 hours to print and will require the same basic work as part 1. We will also glue part 1 and part 2 together using a pin for easy alignement of the 2 parts.

You need to remove the support and the brim (used for better bed adhesion during printing). The brim around he model can be removed with a small hobby knife.

Now it is time to glue the hull part 1 and part 2 together. Before you glue all in place, make sure you test all is fine. Glue the left Connector in Hull part 2 as shown.

Now glue Hull part 1 on Hull part 2 together. Make sure you align the parts as good as possible. As you can see there will be a very small split, that’s fine we will fix that.

Hull front-parts glued together, notice the small split.

When the glue is dry and the parts are bounded together you can use putty to fill the split. Make sure you put enough putty in the split, we will be sanding this when the whole Hull is completed. If you want you can add a very thin layer of putty to other parts of the hull where you feel that the print-layers show to much, that will reduce the visibility of the print-layers and will give an even smoother model after sanding. But might be overkill 🙂

Part 3 – The Middle-Rear part

The middle rear part takes 9 hours to print and is the longest print for this AMS60 model in 0,20 mm Print-layer.

Hull-Part-3 with support and brim still present.

Remove the support and the brim from Hull-part 3 and move on to part 4.

Part 4 – The Rear

The rear part also includes a part with the beams at the rear of the ship. That is a small separate part which you need to glue on the Hull-part 4. Part 4 of the Hull takes about 6 hours to print, excluding 15 minutes to print the separate beams part.

First step is to remove all the support and adhesion brim. As you will notice in the inner-wall of the cable reel pit which was printed on the support is not nice and smooth. Add a small layer of putty will make it look much better.

Next step is to add the rear-beams part to the rear if the hull. If you want you can add a bit of putty in between the beams as shown.

The rear beams, notice the visible print-lines

Final step is adding the beams to the rear of the hull. And if you might want to use some putty to fill the split between the hull and the beams part.

Now glue hull parts 3 and 4, use the small connector to align the 2 parts.

Completing the Hull

We now have the Front and Rear of the Hull completed, the final step is to combine the 2 parts and complete the Hull. Use the last connector cilinder, first test all is correct before you glue the parts. Make sure that you align the parts as good as possible.

You can also glue the wheel-house in the recess. There will be a small slit along the wheelhouse and the hull. It is minimal and I used some putty to fill the slit.

As a last step check the whole model, add putty if needed, sand the model, remove imperfections, etc. The more time you spent the better your model will look. You can also add the rudder and the screw-axis support if you want (as I did that already in the picture below). But I will also show that in the next steps.